Floor sanding is the process of machining a timber floor back to clean, bare wood so it can take a new finish. It removes the old coating, the grey paths worn in front of the couch and down the hallway, most scratches, and the top layer of grime and staining. Done well, it leaves a flat, even surface that looks close to new timber.
In Bendigo the floor being sanded is often older than the people living on it. The goldfields building boom of the 1860s to 1890s produced thousands of timber-framed weatherboard cottages, and many later Californian bungalows, post-war weatherboards and brick veneers were also built on timber floors. Plenty of those boards have spent decades under carpet or lino.
Bendigo Floor Sanders is an enquiry service, not a flooring business. You describe the job, and with your consent we pass it to an independent local floor sander, once one is appointed, who inspects and quotes. This page explains the work so you can judge a quote and ask the right questions.
When a full sand is the right choice
A full sand suits a floor when any of these apply:
- the existing finish is worn through to bare timber in traffic areas;
- there are scratches, dents or stains deeper than the coating;
- carpet, underlay or lino has just come up and the boards have never been finished, or were finished generations ago;
- you want to change the colour, remove an amber cast from an old finish, or switch to a different coating type;
- boards have been replaced or patched and need to be levelled with the rest.
If the finish is only dull and lightly scuffed, and still intact everywhere, a recoat may be enough and costs far less. If boards are broken, springy or rotten, they need repairs first.
Can your floor be sanded?
Solid timber boards (typically 19 mm or thicker) can usually be sanded several times over their life. In older Bendigo houses this is commonly Baltic pine, Victorian ash or Australian hardwoods such as Tasmanian oak or red gum. Softwoods like Baltic pine mark easily and need a lighter hand on the machine.
Engineered timber has a real timber top layer bonded to a plywood or composite base. It can only be sanded if that top layer is thick enough, and the manufacturer's instructions take priority. Very thin wear layers are generally not safe to machine at all.
Laminate, vinyl and hybrid "timber look" floors cannot be sanded. Neither can most floating floors with a printed surface.
If you are unsure, pull back a corner of carpet in a wardrobe, or lift a floor vent, and photograph the edge of a board. That one picture often answers the question.
What happens during a full sand
Every contractor has their own system, but a typical full sand follows this order:
- Inspection and quote. The floor sander checks the species, condition, board fixings, gaps, previous coatings and access, and measures the area.
- Preparation. Rooms are emptied. Carpet tack strips, staples and old nails are removed or punched below the surface so they don't tear abrasives. Loose boards are refixed.
- Coarse sanding. A large drum or belt sander cuts through the old finish and flattens cupped or uneven boards. The grit is chosen to suit the timber and its condition.
- Edges and corners. An edging sander works along skirting boards and into corners. Tight spots, such as around door frames and fireplace hearths, may be scraped by hand.
- Filling. Nail holes, small cracks and minor gaps may be filled with a filler mixed to suit the timber.
- Finer sanding. Progressively finer abrasives remove the marks left by the coarse passes. Many operators finish with a multi-disc or buffing machine to blend the surface.
- Vacuuming and coating. The floor is cleaned thoroughly and the first coat goes on. The choice of finish is covered on the floor polishing page.
How long it takes and what to plan for
Sanding a typical room may take part of a day. The full job, including coats and drying time between them, usually runs over several days for a whole house. The exact timing depends on the coating, the weather, and how much repair work is needed first.
Plan for these practical points:
- Furniture. Rooms usually need to be completely empty. Ask whether furniture moving is included or extra.
- Access. You generally cannot walk on a floor while coats are drying. If the floor runs through the whole house, ask how the contractor sequences rooms so you can still get to a bathroom or kitchen.
- Dust. Modern machines with extraction capture most dust, but no sanding job is completely dust-free. Covering shelves and closing off other rooms is still sensible.
- Heat and weather. Bendigo's summers are hot and dry. The Bureau of Meteorology's long-term averages for Bendigo Airport show mean January maximums above 30 °C and afternoon humidity around 30 per cent. Some coatings dry too fast in those conditions, so your contractor may suggest early starts or a cooler week.
Safety issues to raise before work starts
Old paint. Many older homes have painted borders around rugs, or boards that were painted at some stage. The Australian Government's lead safety guidance says homes built before 1970 are most likely to contain lead paint, and that dry sanding lead paint creates hazardous dust. Tell your contractor about any paint on the boards.
Old floor coverings. Some older vinyl and lino, their backings and their adhesives contain asbestos. If you are lifting old sheet flooring from a house built before the mid-1980s, have it checked before anyone sands or scrapes the residue. Asbestos removal is regulated in Victoria and is separate from floor sanding.
Fumes. Some coatings have a strong odour while curing. Ask what is being used and how long you, children and pets should stay out.
What affects the price
Floor sanding is usually quoted per square metre, with a minimum charge for small jobs. Price guides published in 2026 put a standard sand and three-coat finish in Australia in roughly the $30 to $50 per square metre range, with oils, stains and specialty finishes higher. See typical prices for sources.
What moves a quote up or down:
- total area and the number of separate rooms;
- the coating chosen and the number of coats;
- the condition of the boards, including cupping, gaps, old glue or paint;
- repairs, board replacements and nail punching;
- stairs, which are priced separately;
- furniture moving and access, such as steps up to a raised period house.
Ask for the quote to list the coating product, number of coats, repairs and anything excluded.
Frequently asked questions
How many times can a timber floor be sanded?
A solid floor can usually be sanded several times, because each full sand removes only a small amount of timber. Engineered boards are different: the number of sands depends on the thickness of the top layer, and some can't be sanded at all. A contractor can check this at inspection.
Is it worth sanding the boards under old carpet?
Often, yes. Boards that have been under carpet are frequently in better condition than they look, apart from tack strip holes and staples around the edges. Damaged sections can be repaired before sanding. A photo of a lifted corner helps a contractor give early advice.
Do I need to move out while the floors are sanded?
Not always. Sanding itself is noisy and dusty but short. The bigger question is the coating: some products have a strong odour and long drying times, while low-odour water-based finishes let many households stay nearby. Ask about the product and plan to stay off the floor until it is dry enough to walk on.
Will sanding remove dark stains and pet marks?
Surface marks usually sand out. Stains that have soaked deep into the timber, such as long-standing pet urine or water damage, may remain visible or need the affected boards replaced. Your contractor should tell you at inspection whether a mark is likely to come out.
Can I hire a sander and do it myself?
You can, and machine hire is widely available. The risk is gouging the floor with a drum sander, which is easy to do on soft Baltic pine and hard to fix. Each mistake also uses up timber you can't get back. Many people do the preparation themselves and leave the machine work to a professional.
Ask about your floor
Tell us your suburb, the rooms involved, the approximate area and what the floor looks like now. Photos help. With your consent, we'll pass your enquiry to one independent local floor sander, who will contact you to arrange an inspection and a written quote. There is no cost or obligation to enquire.